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My Favorite Salmon Kulebyaka (Coulibiac)

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I am in peak winter culinary shape right now friends. The weather is solidly mid-40s and rainy, and I am more than happy to get a little damp and chilly on my morning walks and afternoon errands, because I have an entire season of hearty, warming, rib-sticking dishes on deck. Omar and I have begun our annual battle of the thermostat. He likes to keep things cozy, while I relish the delicious contrast between feeling a bit chilled and tucking into a plate of something piping hot.

One thing we can agree on is how much we look forward to making this Salmon Kulebyaka every year when the temperature drops. Recipes abound on the internet, but the history is a little fuzzier (at least in English sources). Here is what I could glean – the dish originated in Russia, where it was originally known as a pirog (pie). It was introduced to France by chefs who had been employed in the Russian imperial court, where it became known as coulibiac. Eventually the French name became re-Russified into kulebyaka – but you still may find recipes for an essentially identical dish under any of these names.

The basic formula is a layered pie of fish, mushrooms, rice or barley, boiled eggs, fresh herbs, and breadcrumbs, encased in a crisp and buttery pastry dough. Meat and vegetarian versions also abound, but salmon seems to be the classic filling of choice.

I have a few strong opinions about baking, but homemade puff pastry is decidedly not one of those opinions. Frozen puff pastry is my secret weapon, and the only thing I ever use to make my kulebyaka (and fancy canapes, and buttery breakfast pastries). Its insanely forgiving, never leaks butter, and crisps reliably even if you don’t quite follow the package directions. If you’re into lamination, by all means proceed with homemade, but rest assured this kulebyaka has plenty of other components that will keep you busy and cozy in the kitchen on a cold winters evening.

You will start with poaching a salmon fillet. I’ve found poaching keeps it moister and adds extra flavor – particularly when you use a mix of white wine and spices. While you let that cool, fry up some onion and mushrooms in a generous amount of butter. Stir in some cooked white rice to add bulk and season with lemon and dill and just a pinch of turmeric for a nice golden color. Finally, boil and slice some eggs.

Once your fillings are prepped, prepare the puff pastry by rolling out a smaller piece to serve as the base layer and a larger piece that will drape over the top (you’ll need more surface area than the bottom to cover the mound of fillings in the middle). Begin with a scattering of bread crumbs – these will help soak up any juices from the fillings and keep the pastry crisp – then a thin layer of mushroom mix, the poached salmon, eggs, and finally another layer of mushrooms. Cover with the second piece of puff pastry and finesse, if you wish, by crimping the edges and carving a decorative pattern on top. If you’re feeling extra fancy, rolling and cutting any excess pastry into decorative shapes would be a nice touch. But even if you do none of these things, you will be amazed at how fantastic your final result looks with nothing more than a simple egg wash.

It ticks all the boxes for an utterly perfect cold-weather dish – hot, savory, umami rich, and super satisfying.

Wishing you all things cozy for this holiday week <3

Salmon and Mushroom Kulebyaka

Ingredients

  • 1 18-oz package frozen puff pastry
  • 3 large eggs, hard boiled and sliced
  • 1 lb salmon fillet
  • 1/2 cup white wine
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 tsp caraway seeds
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 4 tbsp butter, divided
  • 1 medium onion, diced
  • 1 lb mushrooms, sliced
  • 1/2 cup cooked rice or other grain
  • 1/2 tsp turmeric
  • 1/4-1/2 cup chopped fresh dill
  • 1/4 cup dry bread crumbs (I used panko)
  • 1 Tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 egg beaten with 1 tsp water or milk

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 425F. Place the wine, bay leaf, and caraway seeds in a skillet with an additional 1 cup of water. Bring to a bare simmer, then add the salmon and cook for 5 minutes. The salmon will not be cooked through, but will finish cooking in the oven. Remove from heat and let cool. Remove skin if desired.
  2. Wipe out skillet, return to stovetop over medium heat. Melt 2 tbsp butter and add onions. Fry until golden brown, then add mushrooms and cook until they are slightly browned and reduced in volume. Remove from heat and stir in rice, turmeric, and dill.
  3. Roll puff pastry out and cut into two portions. If your pastry is pre-sectioned, roll out 2 sections for the bottom and 4 for the top. Make the bottom later approximately 12×8 inches and the top about 13×9 (exact measurements are not necessary – just make sure the top is a bit bigger than the bottom so it will fit over the fillings with enough to seal).
  4. Sprinkle the bread crumbs over the bottom layer, leaving about a 1/2 inch border on all sides. Follow with a thin layer of the mushroom mixture (1/3 total mixture). Lay the salmon fillet on the mushrooms, splitting and fitting to make a fairly even rectangle to ensure even cooking. Place the egg slices on the salmon, and finally top with the remaining mushroom mixture.
  5. Melt the remaining 2 tbsp butter with the lemon juice and slowly and evenly drizzle over the fillings, taking care to avoid the exposed pastry edges.
  6. Top with the larger piece of puff pastry, crimping and sealing the edges. Score the top if desired and/or add decorations using excess pastry cut into shapes with a cookie cutter or sharp knife.
  7. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until pastry is golden brown, puffed, and crisp when tapped.
  8. Remove from the oven and let rest for 10-15 minutes to firm up. Slice and serve.