“An apple pie without the cheese is like a hug without a squeeze”
– Mom, grandpa, and probably the national dairy council
Has anyone else heard this totally cheesy quote in reference to apple pie before? My mom and paternal grandfather were known deliver the quip, usually after an autumn or Thanksgiving meal when the pies and coffee arrived to the table. Despite the words being seared into my memory, I can’t actually recall ever actually eating an apple pie with the addition of said cheese. Perhaps my Dad wasn’t a fan, or Mom assumed I would not be. But regardless, I was (still am) team pumpkin pie, ride or die, and so never really gave too much thought about this strange pastry matrimony until I started baking myself.
A quick internet search turns up a plethora of ways to include cheese in apple treats. Some layer slices between the apple and crust, some incorporate cheese into the apple filling, some recipes call for blending finely shredded cheese into a savory, buttery crust – and some just melt a big of hunk of cheddar on top (at least you know what you’re about to get into). Opinions about this uniquely US tradition abound, and this may come as a great shock – but the country is deeply divided. Some folks claim this is the one true way to eat apple pie (and seem to be mainly from the Northeast and Midwest), while others recoil in abject horror (mainly Southerners, folks on the West Coast, and the TikTok generation).
Regardless of where you come down on the issue, you have to admit it does makes sense. The inclusion of apple slices on a restaurant cheese plate is positively quotidian, and sweet and salty desserts are nothing new. But that sprinkling of sea salt on every trendy bakery’s cookie creations is texturally unobtrusive. Melted cheese – in a warm dessert traditionally associated with sweet cinnamony notes? – adds an unmistakable foreign element to the mix.
I took my first foray into the fray with a simple apple crisp and some deliciously nutty Gouda I treated myself to on a recent grocery run. (I fully admit I am still working through my fear of pie crust – don’t rush me). Because we’re traveling to a wedding this weekend (yay! first post-Covid nuptials!), I didn’t want a big batch dessert we couldn’t finish before we leave, and pulled out my set of 7 oz. ramekins that are just perfect for individual treats. The formula is very simple. Chopped apples get tossed with a little lemon juice and cornstarch, then topped with a few slices of Gouda and a buttery, oatmeal crumble crust sweetened with brown sugar and honey, and baked until bubbling and golden brown.
The Gouda melted into the apple filling beautifully with an umami, nutty flavor reminiscent of walnuts. The apples were soft and sweet and the crisp, buttery topping was delicious while still warm from the oven. I wanted a final product that was fairly balanced between sweet and savory, so I kept the sugars minimal. If you’d prefer a sweeter contrast to the savory cheese, add a tablespoon of white sugar to both the topping and apple mixture. Another note – you’ll notice my 7 oz. ramekins do not overfloweth. I only had 2 apples (a little less than 1 lb pre-peeling/coring) to work with, but if you had the same size or larger, I would use 3-4. It may seem like you overstuff them but the apples cook down and lose a lot of their shape while baking.
I have to say, I think I’m team cheese now. If you’re still not convinced, give this gentle introduction to cheese and apple a try – and let me know what you think!
Sweet and Savory Mini Apple Crisps with Gouda
Ingredients
- 1 lb (2-3 medium) apples of your choice (I used Pink Lady), peeled, cored, and chopped into small pieces* (see notes below)
- 1 Tbsp lemon juice
- 2 tsp cornstarch
- 1/2 cup (65g) all-purpose flour
- 3 Tbsp rolled or instant oats
- 1/8 tsp ground nutmeg
- 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
- 2 packed Tbsp dark brown sugar
- 2 Tbsp white sugar (optional)**
- 1 Tbsp honey
- 4 Tbsp melted butter
- 2 oz gouda cheese, sliced into squares or rectangles that will fit in your ramekin, about 1/4″ thin
Directions
- Preheat the oven to 350F.
- Toss the diced apple with the cornstarch and lemon juice and 1 Tbsp white sugar (if desired). Set aside to thicken.
- Whisk flour, oats, spices, brown sugar and 1 Tbsp white sugar (if desired). Add honey and melted butter and mix gently with 2 forks or your fingers until just combined.
- Divide the apple mixture equally between 4 small ramekins. (I used 7oz. capacity ramekins and had plenty of room left over, see notes below on adjusting apple amount if yours are the same size or larger).
- Lay 2-3 slices of gouda over the apples.
- Crumble the topping over the gouda. Place ramekins on a baking sheet.
- Bake for 25-35 minutes or until the apple mixture is bubbling and the topping is golden brown. Enjoy warm from the oven on a chilly autumn night.
